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 Overall purpose:
The program is for current, active rock climbers that have a real desire to teach the rock climbing to novices in a single pitch setting. Candidates should be passionate rock climbers that have their own equipment, regularly climb and have been rock climbing outdoors for at least 12 months. Candidates could be current University Professors that teach climbing, Climbing Instructors, Scout Leaders, Summer Camp Professionals or climbers that wish to achieve additional training, experience and certification to gain employment as a Climbing Instructor in the Outdoor Industry.
The SPI will be able to proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting. For the purpose of the SPI Program a single pitch climb is one which:
Is climbed without intermediate belays
presents no difficulties on approach or retreat, such as route finding, scrambling or navigating
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course:
The SPI Program is a three-day (27 hour) training course and separate two day (16 hour) assessment. Certification lasts for three years as long as the candidate keeps current AMGA Membership and First Aid Certification. After three years current SPI’s can re-take the SPI Assessment to re-gain the SPI certification. Taking any higher level AMGA Course also re-certifies the SPI certifcation for another three years.
Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) Course Description:
In 1998 the AMGA created the Top Rope Site Manager Program specifically to address the needs of professionals that teach climbing in the single pitch environment. After three years of curriculum development and input from climbing instructors across the country and from Climbing Instructor Associations overseas we have upgraded the program to become the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program in 2008. The Single Pitch Instructor Program better suites the needs of today’s climbing instructors and is designed to enable instructors to ‘proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting’. The three day SPI course module covers all the required skills sets for managing a single pitch site from the base or top of the cliff where candidates can either access the top by non technical terrain or by leading.
The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program is the only nationally recognized single pitch climbing instructor certification program and is recognized by many land managers, insurance companies, other associations and of course the general public. The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program has been created to fit in the AMGA Rock Discipline training program, taking off from the AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Program and greatly improving the instructor’s skill sets and integrating into the next level of training, the AMGA Rock Instructor Course. The SPI Program curriculum has been designed with this in mind and many of the SPI Program Instructors work teaching higher level courses for the AMGA and serve on the AMGA’s Technical Committee so they are actively involved in all levels of instructor and guide training in the AMGA.
The course
 revisits and improves existing personal recreational climbing skills and introduce guide specific skills. Topics include expanding your repertoire
of belay systems, knots, harness choices, and rappelling methods; exploring and practicing methods of teaching and modelling these skills; coaching participants effectively, noting external and internal hazards; and sorting through the
equipment, administrative, legal and ethical expectations and responsibilities associated with being a climbing instructor; developing quick and effective anchoring techniques using natural, artificial and bolt anchors; practicing a
variety of anchor configurations and learning many subtleties about anchoring; establishing and managing re-directed and traditional top rope climbing sites including various belays and backup methods, extending anchors, negotiating
the edge when rappelling, general site management, environmental concerns, coaching, belay transfers; assisting and rescuing climbers; promoting Leave No Trace, and understanding the experiential education model along with briefing and debriefing processes and learning and teaching styles.
Target audience:
Outdoor instructors, aspiring guides, and climbers who facilitate top rope climbing programs in group settings such as camps, schools, universities, therapeutic groups, and climbing schools.
Pre-Requisites for Single Pitch Instructor Course
You meet the pre-requisites for the SPI course if you:
Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and
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instructing novices on single pitch crags.
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Are at ast 18 years old at the time of the course.
The above pre-requisites are absolute minimums and most candidates have way in excess of the above. Without having at least this amount experience you are unlikely to play a constructive part on the course or be able to make best use of the training. If you are unsure of your skill levels we suggest hiring an AMGA/IFMGA certified guide to evaluate and enhance your skills and experience prior to SPI Program enrollment. Pre-Requisites for SPI Assessment
The SPI Assessment can be taken directly following the SPI Course if the candidate successfully completed the course and meets the Assessment pre-requisites. However, it is highly recommended that the SPI Course candidate takes time practicing and consolidating the skills learned on the course before assessment (6-12 months).
You meet the SPI Assessment Pre-requisites if:
- You have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course or AMGA Top Rope Site Manager Course.
- You have trad lead climbed a minimum of 40 rock climbing routes. A large number of these should be at 5.6 grade and hopefully on a variety of rock types.
- You are capable of comfortably lead climbing 5.6 traditional routes (leader placing protection). You will demonstrate your leading ability on a variety of routes on the assessment.
- You are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.
Required Equipment List:
UIAA/CE approved Climbing Helmet
UIAA/CE approved Climbing Harness with belay loop
Climbing shoes or approach shoes you can climb in to 5.7
Standard climbing rack to include:
Stoppers, SLCD's, Tri-cams, etc.
Assorted 24" and 48" runners (must have one 48" runner)
10 or more non-locking carabiners
3 or more HMS/Pearbiners
6 or more locking carabiners
Belay/rappel device, such as the "Reverso," "ATC," etc.
Petzel GriGri belay device
2 Prussic loops (4 ft of 5mm nylon accessory cord)
2 Cordolettes (21 ft. of 7mm nylon accessory cord)
One 165-200 ft "single" rope (9.5-11mm) suitable for top roping
One static or "semi static" (gym line) rope 10-11mm, 80-100ft, for setting up anchors and fixed lines.
All gear will be inspected on the first morning of the course and is expected to be in good condition.
Mark all your gear.
Schedule a Course
Cancellations:
No refunds are given for cancellations made 21 days or less before any course.
50% Deposit required for all courses
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